Ingredients
3 lb baking potatoes (4 or 5 large)
salt
½ to 1 cup of milk, plus more if needed
2 to 4 Tbsp unsalted butter, room temperature
freshly ground pepper (white for Julia, black for Jaques)
for garnish
fresh chives, sliced
Wash and peel the potatoes and cut into quarters, keeping them immersed in a bowl of cold water as you work to prevent discoloration. Put them in a large kettle with salted, cold water to cover (1½ teaspoons of salt for every quart).
Cover the pot and bring to the boil over high heat. Uncover, reduce the heat, and cook at a medium boil for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the potatoes are easily pierced with a sharp knife.
To dry the potatoes, return them to the empty dry pot. Set over moderate heat and toss the pieces just until the pan begins to film.
Mashing with an electric mixer
Transfer the hot potatoes to the bowl of the electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Mix at low speed to break up the pieces for a few seconds, then whip at medium speed, adding about ⅓ to ½ cup of the hot milk. Still beating, add a tablespoon or two of butter, 1 teaspoon of salt, and several grinds of pepper. Taste for seasoning, scrape down the sides of the bowl and clear the paddle if necessary. Adjust seasoning and beat in more milk and butter (or garlic cream) as you wish.
Mashing in a ricer or food mill
Press the hot potatoes through a food mill or a potato ricer into a bowl or large saucepan. With a wooden spatula, beat in butter until potatoes are smooth. Season with ¾ teaspoon of salt and ¼ teaspoon of pepper, then pour in ⅓ cup or more of the hot milk, stirring slowly until completely Incorporated. Adjust the seasonings and stir in more butter or milk (or garlic cream) if you wish. Whip with a wire whisk to lighten. Serve the potatoes at once.
*Garlic Cream
Separate the cloves of one large head of garlic and peel them. Put them in a small, high sided saucepan with ⅔ cup of heavy cream. Bring to the simmer. Turn down the heat to low–barest simmer– and simmer for 25 minutes or longer, until the cloves are very tender; the cream will have reduced and thickened. Strain through a fine mesh sieve, pressing the garlic through and scraping the purée off the bottom of the sieve. Stir the purée and cream into the hot mashed potatoes immediately before serving.